Deep within the Cañón del Río Lobos Natural Park in Soria, about two to three hours’ drive from Madrid, the Ermita de San Bartolomé (St. Bartholomew’s Hermitage) is yet another sample of Spain’s rich medieval heritage and fascinating spiritual traditions. Built in the early 13th century, this small Romanesque-almost-Gothic hermitage is a place where history, legend, and nature come together to attract travelers seeking adventure, solace, or both.
The Ermita de San Bartolomé is somewhat shrouded in mystery, especially because of its alleged connection to the Knights Templar. The Templars were a powerful military order founded in the early 12th century to protect Christian pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. In Spain, they played a major role in the Reconquista – the centuries-long campaign to reclaim the Iberian Peninsula from Muslim rule.
The Templars were granted vast lands and built numerous fortresses, churches, and commanderies throughout Spain. Some scholars claim it was precisely their wealth and influence that eventually led to their downfall. In the early 14th century, under pressure from the French crown, the Order was dissolved and its properties confiscated or abandoned.
Although there is no concrete evidence linking the Ermita de San Bartolomé directly to the Templars, it has long been associated with their legacy, fueled by its remote and evocative setting. Historically, the hermitage was once misidentified as the now-lost church of San Juan de Otero, a Templar commandery that was actually located on the nearby hill of San Juan. The remains of this Templar site are still visible today, adding another epic layer of history to the area.
The Ermita de San Bartolomé, declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 2015, is a unique architectural blend of Romanesque and early Gothic styles. The Latin cross layout of the church is clearly visible from the outside, and the relatively low transept accentuates the height of the nave. Interestingly, the pointed barrel vault of the nave does not intersect with the transept, meaning that there is no dome or lantern at the intersection – a feature that adds to the unique character of the hermitage.
One of the most captivating aspects of this hermitage is its two rose windows, one on each gable of the transept. These intricate windows, with their lacy tracery forming a five-pointed star, suggest Islamic influences and are evidence of the cultural exchanges of the time. The external archivolts that surround the windows are simple and elegant, with only the outermost decorated.
The surrounding Cañón del Río Lobos (the Río Lobos Canyon), a dramatic landscape of steep cliffs, dense forests, and winding rivers, enhances the spiritual atmosphere of the Ermita de San Bartolomé. This natural park is a haven for hikers and nature lovers, offering numerous trails that wind through the canyon’s scenery. For those who venture into this hidden sanctuary, the experience is one of profound peace, where the ancient walls of the hermitage still whisper the secrets of centuries past.
